Summary: Perched above the kitchen, the place offers intimate vantage points as skewers sizzle and oils perfume the air
Torishiki sits as a tiny shrine to yakitori, a 17 stool room where the open kitchen becomes the stage. Omakase-style skewers parade from quail eggs with barely solid yolks to neck, heart and thigh cuts, all juicy and bright. High flames lock in umami as chicken oil, soy sauce with dashi, or olive oil are chosen to suit each cut. The chef’s devotion shows in the charcoal mastery of binchotan and in the meticulous reservation ritual by phone.