Summary: Intimate setting with creative cuisine.
Ekume, nestled in the heart of a charming street perfumed with orange blossom, beckons with its sapphire blue frontage. Inside, a warm and welcoming atmosphere awaits, with light grey and blue walls creating an almost intimate setting complete with a long brown leather bench, cozy cushions, and comfortable armchairs. At the back, the open kitchen reveals Edgar Bosquez, a young Panamanian chef with a petite black beard and sparkling eyes, who continues to amaze with his instinctive and original cooking style. The constantly evolving menu is full of creative discoveries and sometimes bold pairings. A delightful young woman with a charming South American accent serves a fine tartlet with the subtle flavors of barely cooked mullet, chopped by knife, and shrimp juice with soubressade, topped with a slightly heavy choron sauce that challenges the palate. The precision is impressive in dishes like al dente roasted cauliflower paired with a surprising white chocolate cream and a chermoula bursting with the flavors of garlic, coriander, spices, and lemon, which complements a watercress and oyster juice. An impeccable monkfish mignon in tempura follows, served with Jerusalem artichoke, almond shards, and reduced crab juice, which pairs beautifully with a refreshing 2020 "Léon" Pouilly-Fumé by Jonathan Didier Pabiot, bursting with citrus notes. The delicious sweetbread with mushrooms and a concentrated jus is presented like a pâté en croûte, which slightly diminishes its robust charm, but is accompanied by an excellent red cabbage ketchup. And then come the desserts! One can't help but be amazed by the audacity of a hollowed-out sea urchin placed in a beautifully crafted plate, surrounded by shells, filled with blood orange rice pudding and sea urchin tongue sorbet. Sublime. Equally impeccable is the surprising combination of a warm chocolate mousse, cocoa nibs stuffed with sorrel sorbet, and a sorrel-citron juice. One simply yearns for a permanent spot at this talented chef's table. After accumulating a notable list of experiences, Chef Edgar Bosquez has settled in this location, offering a menu that celebrates fish, seafood, and the essence of Provence with dishes like a fine aubergine tartlet and thinly sliced sea bream with carrot jus, achiote oil, citrus fruit, and bottarga, as well as set menus featuring several courses, one of which is dedicated to bouillabaisse.